Hiking – APASSION

Trip to Sixt Fer-à-Cheval

robin.tarr — Tue, 16 Jun 2020 13:53:44 +0000

Closer to home is the village of Sixt-Fer-à-Cheval, a quick 10 minute drive or 20 minute cycle from the chalet.

Sixt is home to the natural wonders of the Cirque du Fer-à-Cheval, the Cascade de Rouget, the Gorges des Tines as well as a magnificent 12th century Abbey.

The Cirque du Fer-à-Cheval is a Réseau des Grand Sites de France (https://www.grandsitedefrance.com) and is part of the Sixt-Passy Nature Reserve, a natural amphitheatre formed by limestone escarpments which rise dramatically around you as you enter the Cirque. In spring and after heavy rainfall more than 30 spectacular waterfalls descend from the rock face down into the area below. There are numerous walking trails within the Cirque of different levels of ability enabling visitors to explore this natural wonder. The walk to the Bout de Monde (end of the world) is a relatively easy walk with a gentle incline to the head of the valley. If you fancy something more challenging then you can take the walk up to the Buvette du Boret where you can look down over the Bout de Monde and the Cirque. You could also continue up to the Lac de la Vogealle via the Refuge de la Vogealle.

From the village of Sixt Fer-à-Cheval you can also head to the Cascade de Rouget, also known as “The Queen of the Alps”. This is one of the most powerful waterfalls in the French Alps, it’s torrent falling dramatically over 80 metres. The road passes right by the waterfall giving a birds eye view of the water powering over the rocks. At the end of the road is a café with magnificent views down the valley towards Sixt. You can just stop for lunch or a drink or chose one of the many walks that start from this point including the Pointe de Salle via the Refuge de Salle or the Lac d’Anterne via the Refuge Alfred Wills.

The village of Sixt marks the start of the descent of the River Giffre via the Gorges des Tines to the village of Samoëns. You can chose between white water rafting, kayaking, hydrospeed, airboat or canoraft. There are a number of companies offering equipment rental and guiding down this challenging but thrilling stretch of the river.

There is also the opportunity to experience Via Ferrata at La Mont, opposite the Gorges des Tines. Via Ferrata was developed during the First World War as a way of enabling mountain troops to access seemingly inaccessible areas. Foot plates, metal rungs, ladders and swing bridges assist your passage and a steel cable running along the length of the route, to which you connect, prevents you from falling. The via ferrata at La Mont offers a superb panorama of the Pointe de Salle and the village of Sixt below.

In summer the Abbey in Sixt plays host to an open air music concert every Wednesday evening. Take along a picnic (an a bottle of good wine) and enjoy a convivial summers evening with friends or family in the grounds of the Abbey.

Chamonix in Summer

robin.tarr — Sun, 14 Jun 2020 15:56:19 +0000

One of the many attractions about Samoëns is it’s proximity to so many well-known places and landmarks, from the blue glacial hues of Lake Annecy to the snow covered peaks of the Mont Blanc range in Chamonix.

Over the coming weeks we’ll be exploring a few of our favourite places to give you a taste of some of the things you can do when staying in one of our properties in the summer.

The focus of this update is Chamonix, famed for it’s iconic mountain range and in particular Mont Blanc standing at 4,810m.

No matter what your level of ability or age there is something amazing for everyone in Chamonix.

For the active there is an abundance of hikes in the valley with spectacular views in every direction, some with the option to stop for a well-earned break at a mountain refuge. You can even take one of the many ski lifts up to reach greater heights!

For the kids then there is the fun park, Domaine des Planards, with it’s summer luge or the animal park of Merlet, a magnificent 50 acre park facing the Mont Blanc range and sheltering more than 80 wild animals most of which are native to this area.

Thanks to the various transportation options in the valley you can reach a high altitude without much effort. Take a ride on the fabulous Tramway de Mont Blanc, the highest railway in France, opened in 1909, up to the start of the classical ascent of Mont Blanc, or take the Montenvers rack and pinion railway up to the Mer de Glace and take a tour of the ice cave carved into the very heart of the glacier. The Aiguille du Midi cable car takes you up to an altitude of 3,777m from where you have a 360 degree view of the French, Swiss and Italian Alps. Here you can embark on the Panoramic Mont Blanc cable car for a 50 minute trip above the glaciers and into Italy.

A trip to Chamonix wouldn’t be complete without a stop at one of it’s many fabulous restaurants. A personal favourite of ours is La Cabane des Praz. You can’t beat the views from their terrace on a sunny day overlooking the golf course of Chamonix with the Mont Blanc massif in the background!

Le Criou Revisted

robin.tarr — Mon, 26 Aug 2019 14:03:41 +0000

With the prospect of amazing views on another blue-sky day we decided it was time to head back up the Montagne du Criou, the iconic mountain that acts as the back-drop to the village of Samoëns.

After our recent exploits climbing Mont Buet (3100m) and the fact that we’d climbed the Criou (2200m) before the hope was that ascending for a second time would be an easier outing. How wrong we were and how glad we were to find that the “Criouly” café at the Chalets du Trot (1400m) were open and serving fresh coffee!

As you climb above the level of the chalets the views open up and you begin to appreciate how steep the ascent is and how perfectly flat the Giffre Valley seems below.

The last 200m of ascent are, rather unfortunately for the legs, some of the hardest of the hike but on reaching the top you are rewarded with the most magnificent 360 degree views encompassing the Mont Blanc mountain range to the south, Pointe Rousse and Mont Buet to the east and as far as the Swiss Jura mountains, more than 60km to the west.

We were so pleased with our efforts on such a perfect day that we couldn’t help but reward ourselves with a second pit-stop at the “Criouly” but this time for something a little stronger!! All-in-all a great day-hike of around 7 hours for those with a reasonable level of fitness. Why not give it a go next time you have a summer stay in Samoëns.

Mont Buet – A Bigger Challenge

robin.tarr — Fri, 16 Aug 2019 14:20:40 +0000

Being the highest mountain in the immediate vicinity, Mont Buet (3,100m), has always been on our ‘to-do’ list and finally with the collective courage of a few friends from the valley we decided that this was the week to give it a go!

There are a number of routes up but we decided on the least vertigo inducing but with an ascent gain of nearly 1900m and a total hike of 19km it certainly still warrants the categorisation of “Very Hard”.

Starting from the village of Le Buet (1,323m) in the Chamonix valley the first trail marker rather worryingly suggests an ascent time of 6 hours with the first stopping point at the Refuge de la Pierre Berard (1,924m) being 2 hours into the hike.

The trail (part of the Tour du Pays du Mont Blanc) initially climbs through a forested valley but once above the tree line you are rewarded with magnificent views back down the valley towards Vallocine and beyond.

After reaching the refuge in a little over an hour and a half we realised that the guide times, much to our relief, were definitely on the generous side!

Beyond the refuge the walk turns into a serious mountain hike as the gradient increases, the trail becomes less defined and the lush vegetation is replaced by a mix of scree and boulder falls. The landscape above 2,500m is very much otherworldly especially when you finally see what looks like a lunar vehicle perched on top of what you hope is the summit!

At around 2,900m the trail hits the Arête de la Mortine and you are rewarded, rather suddenly, with the most specular panorama of Mont Blanc and the Chaîne des Fiz – a perfect photo opportunity whilst resting our legs!

Following a particularly tough stretch up to around 3,040m we found that our ‘lunar-vehicle summit’ was actually a satellite communications tower and that the actual summit was another 10 minutes further on – but at least it was now insight.

At the 4 and half hour mark we finally made the 3,100m summit to find some of the most breath-taking 360 degree views you can imagine taking in the Massif du Mont Blanc, Le Chaîne des Aravis, Le Grand Massif, Les Portes du Soleil and the Monts du Jura.

Unfortunately, after a well-earned picnic lunch (and an obligatory swig of celebratory single malt) we had to push our somewhat stiffened legs to take us back down the mountain which proved to be almost as tough as the ascent and not an awful lot quicker! Our descent was, however, interspersed with several sightings of inquisitive bouquetin (Alpine Ibex) which made for a real added highlight of the hike.

At 17.45 we finally made it to the very welcoming Cascade de Bérard café for a large beer; Needless to say it didn’t touch the sides!

So, after 8 hours of hiking if the question is “ Was it worth it?” then the answer is, “Absolutely!”

Whilst certainly not a hike for the faint hearted the views both en-route to the top and from the summit itself are truly breath taking mountainscapes and you may just be lucky enough to be treated to encounters with the friendly bouquetin!

Hike to Vogealle – At last!

robin.tarr — Tue, 23 Jul 2019 15:41:08 +0000

In terms of local refuge walks then the hike up to the Refuge de la Vogealle (1901m) was the last on our list. Starting from the stunningly beautiful Cirque de Fer a Cheval (955m) there are 2 route options to reach the upper alpine pastures; Either the longer more gradual climb via the Fond de la Combe which takes you along the river valley or, the far more direct route up the cliff face which, whilst exhilarating isn’t so good for those suffering from vertigo!

We decided on the direct route (which tested Rob’s nerve), but were consoled with a coffee stop at the lovely Buvette du Boret (1290m) which gave us time to take in the views across to the rock face of Tenneverge as well as the glaciers of Mont Ruan and Prazon.

From the Buvette the track climbs-up through the upper pastures before turning rocky as the track zig-zags across the remains of old rock falls. Approaching an altitude of 1900m the track flattened out into a grassy bowl, the home of the Refuge de la Vogealle (1901m).

Despite being a little peckish we pushed on the extra 20 minutes and 100m of ascent to reach the shores of the Lac de la Vogealle (2001m) for our lunch stop. Whilst the lake can often be empty by early August we found the water level still pretty high but with a chill breeze whipping around we refrained from testing the depth!

Relaxing in a deck-chair at the refuge on the return leg we sampled one of the all time great myrtille tarts (blueberry) which disappeared so quick I only managed to get a photo of the remnants! Yum!

Having ascended via the direct route, from the Buvette we took the longer (and less heart-attack inducing) route back to the valley. The views of the glacial valley from Le Bout du Monde at 1250m (The End of the World) are well worth the longer hike down as you pass by the multiple waterfalls stemming from the glaciers above.

Total trip time around 7 hours with about 6 hours of great hiking; Just wondering why we’d taken so long to get around to making the trip and already thinking about linking the route up with the longer hike that takes you beyond the lake, over the Col de Chambres (2338m) and down to the Refuge de Folly . . . just one problem . . . there is a tricky bit getting over the Col that might not sit well with Rob’s vertigo!!

Dent de Verreu – Revisited after 6 years

robin.tarr — Wed, 27 Sep 2017 15:58:46 +0000

The hike up to the Dent de Verreu (1901m) was one of the first ‘serious’ walks that we completed following our move to Samoëns in January 2011 (see our previous post) and we’d actually forgotten how stunningly beautiful the walk was.

Starting at Le Mont (980m) with its stunning church and bread-oven you walk up past the Fromagerie de Chèvre (and plenty of goats) on then up through the forest to the alpine pastures of Verreu where you start to get a glimpse of the views to come.

As you reach the peak, the Dent de Verreu at 1901m, then you are suddenly hit by the dramatic panoramic views stretching 180 degrees from Mont Blanc, across the top of the Grand Massif and right down the Giffre Valley in the direction of Geneva with the snow covered peaks of the Jura in the background.

The views are more than enough reward for the 2.5 hour hike-up and the peak makes the perfect spot for a picnic lunch!

Pointe de Miribel – The Vallée Verte

robin.tarr — Wed, 18 Nov 2015 13:03:57 +0000

The Pointe de Miribel (Alt 1581m) in the Vallée Verte is perfect for those looking for a short walk to the top of a mountain Peak as you can park about a 10 minute walk from the summit! The Pointe offers spectacular panoramic views of the surrounding area, including the Mont Blanc range, the Vallee Verte and the surrounding Chablais peaks.

Simply enjoy a picnic with family or friends, or if you are feeling more adventurous, then you can take the two and a half hour loop track that finishes back at the Pointe. The walk is classified as an easy walk with the exception of a 10 minute steep climb up to the peak at the very end of the walk which can be avoided if you don’t want the climb (this isn’t the same route up from the parking!).

The day we did the walk it was a beautiful, quiet, autumnal day with a sea of cloud filling the valleys beneath us.

Walk to the top of Le Môle

robin.tarr — Sun, 08 Nov 2015 16:51:46 +0000

With beautiful colours and warm, blue sky days, autumn is a fantastic time to explore the Alps. There are so many mountain peaks to explore and at this time of year you can pretty much have the path to yourself!

Le Môle is just such a walk, a lone peak at the confluence of the Giffre and Arve valleys offering a 360 degree panorama of the entire Mont Blanc range, Lake Geneva and the Jura beyond!

There are various trails to the top depending on your level of fitness, passing through trees and pastureland, but always with glimpses of the stunning scenery surrounding you. You should allow at least 4 hours for the round trip.

The climb is most definitely worth it for the magnificent views of the area.

A beautiful hike in the Vallee Verte

robin.tarr — Sat, 11 Jul 2015 06:39:01 +0000

Always keen to explore the area so we can in-part our local knowledge to our guests, we ventured in the direction of Geneva to the beautiful Vallee Verte on the recommendation of one of our neighbours.

The walk commences about an hours drive from the chalet in Habere–Poche, the highest village in the Vallee Verte, taking you through some stunning mountain scenery.

The walk encompasses 3 mountain passes, the first being the most spectacular. A one hour gentle climb past some beautifully chalets and then through forest takes you to the Col de l’ Encrenaz where a further 10 minute steep climb takes you to the summit of Mont Forchat. Here you are rewarded with 360 degree views of the rolling hills of the Vallee Verte, the mightier surrounding peaks of the Chablais area including the Dents du Midi, and the Mont Blanc range in the background, and Lake Geneva with the Jura mountains on the horizon. A perfect picnic spot!

The walk continues down to the Col de Moises and then onto the Col de Cou with views of the Vallee Verte and the occasional view of Lake Geneva through the trees. It was at the latter Col where we discovered a recently refurbished restaurant with an outside terrace affording amazing views over Lake Geneva. A perfect stop for a coffee and a Tarte aux Myrtilles! The walk continues through the forest alongside a ravine back to Hebere-Poche and then back to the car.

The full walk takes 5 hours but if you have limited time you can bail half way round at the Col de Moises and return to Habere-Poche.

Our first night in a refuge – Moëde Anterne

robin.tarr — Wed, 18 Sep 2013 07:24:07 +0000

The walk to the Col d’Anterne had come highly recommended and for added excitement it involved an overnight stay at a refuge – a first for Vicky and I, so we weren’t too sure what to expect!

For morale support, a little bit of ‘Dutch-courage’ and an excuse for some catch-up time we partnered up with friends Sam, Steve and their (almost) 2 year old son, Barney, for the over-night hike. We dropped 1 vehicle off at La Fardelay before driving up to the start of the walk at Le Lignon with the target of reaching the Refuge Alfred Wills for lunch.

The track follows a section of the GR5, a walk that stretches 1500km between the Netherlands and the Mediterranean and which passes through the heart of Samoëns in the Giffre Valley before heading through the Passy National Reserve and into Chamonix in the Arve Valley.

Whilst our ‘grande randonnee’ was only going to be a small sample of the route, the alpine section of the GR5 is considered to be one of the most beautiful and rewarding hikes in the world and with perfect blue sky forecast for our walk we were all in high-spirits and looking forward to some spectacular views.

The track from Le Lignon to Refuge Alfred Wills initially climbs 600m to Collet d’Anterne (1796m) from where you are rewarded with your first views of the snow capped peaks of the Mont Blanc range. After an extremely leisurely lunch at the refuge we continued to follow the GR5, climbing a further 350m, to reach the Lac d’Anterne at 2150m. The setting for the lake is truly stunning being flanked by the vertical 800m high wall of the Rochers des Fiz on one side and the ridge of the Fretes de Moëde on the other. As we relaxed on the shores of the lake, surrounded by the characteristic squeals of marmotte and the ringing of sheep and goat bells we really felt at one with nature – just a shame we had another col to climb before we could reward ourselves with a mountain fondue and a few bottles of beer . . . . . . . .

. . . . . . but what a col the Col d’Anterne turned out to be – at 2257m and just over 10km away from Mont Blanc we just stood, stared and smiled at the beauty of the truly breath-taking views of the peaks and glaciers of the Mont Blanc range.

After realising that we’d started to get cold and that dinner time wasn’t far away we headed down the ridge to our over-night stop at the Refuge Moëde Anterne from where we were able to watch the changing colours of the sunset reflecting off the snow whilst re-hydrating on a few bottles of Mont Blanc Beer and some rosé.

After almost missing breakfast as a result of a lie-in (only until 7.30am!) we packed-up our rucksacks and re-traced our steps back over the Col d’Anterne and past the lake before taking an alternative route back into the Giffre Valley. Leaving the route of the GR5 we headed up and over Le Petit Col d’Anterne (2038m) before dropping down into the stunningly beautiful Cirque des Fonts for a well deserved lunch at the Refuge des Fonts! Donning our packs for the last time we then headed back to our van at La Fardelay. A truly exceptional walk with magnificent scenery and one that we’ll certainly be doing again – hopefully with the accompaniment or Sam, Steve and Barney!